Wednesday, December 17, 2014

Vallejo - chipping medium

I had been wanting to try this out and wondering if it is worth it to buy it online. Lucky that today i was near to the shop and found this on shelf. This is the only kind that is available here in Hong Kong.

Looking forward to try it out tonight... Perhaps I can do a step by step with it too haha.

Wednesday, December 10, 2014

Stone Slabs Street Showdown - building the base

It was a learning experience.
(This turns out to be a very long entry and got a lot of photos... )

I made a lot of mistakes, acted on impulse and bought a lot of material out of impulse as well.  So as it turns out I don't need a lot of the stuff I bought and I wasted a lot of material along the way as well.


I did a mock up by just putting together some stock paper and wood.

Then I just stuff the spaces with a lot of clay, really, a lot of clay. but as I realized that it was a waste I started to use more wood to set up the base first, to fill up the spaces so that I don't need so much clay.




got to love Juweela bricks.  I had been using them on a lot of my models.  This time around I learned something more about them: don't prime them, just paint on them.  I made such a mistake and it took me a lot more work to get it look real.  Also, it pays to put some space between them.  In reality they won't be so neatly packed together like that.



This is how it looks like after I filled in the tiny gaps between the bricks, primed, washed and added a lot of pigments.

Canon EOS 40D
Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM
1/6s f/5.6 ISO:800

So when I had learned my lessons I used a lot more wood to make some framework under bigger wood panels so that I don't have to fill the spaces with expensive clay again.



And when It's done I just put a thick layer of clay on top, and start sculpting the surface to make them look like stone slabs.  I smooth out the surface by dripping a lot of water on top of it and smooth it with finger. It was quite messy actually. I sprinkled some sand on it so that it got more stone like texture.


This is how it looks like after priming an air-brushed.  Back when I was trying to smooth it out I used a lot of water, so at the end there were a lot of 'spikes' as the clay behaved like whip cream.  I ended up having to clip away the spikes to make it look more natural.

Canon EOS 40D
Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM
1/6s f/5.6 ISO:800

I know it isn't a good thing to re-cast, but this is only for me and I am not selling it so I hope secret weapon won't mind.  I got a huge 50mm base from Secret Weapon's sack of crap, and re-casted a sewer cover (man-hole) with green stuff. It then was put near the path that cuts through the stairway.  I am hoping that it would create a sense that there is something more out there outside the boundary of the base.



This is how the path looks like.  I traced lines on the path so that it looks more like concrete road in Hong Kong.

Canon EOS 40D
Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM
1/6s f/5.6 ISO:800


Monday, December 8, 2014

Stone Slabs Street Showdown - my first full size scratch built diorama, inspirations

Hi everyone, I am back :)

I had been posting these on WAMP forum but I didn't get a lot of interest,  but I'd still post it here to see if I can get some more interest here.  So at this moment the diorama is already half done and on to painting the characters already.

I always wanted to do a full scale diorama, but never really have the courage to do it.  This time around I got a lot of motivation from the Umbrella Revolution movement I got inspired and put this idea into action.

Well this is only my first stab at building something this big I made quite a lot of mistakes, one of the biggest mistake is that I haven't thought the whole thing through before going on to make it.  I did made some sketch of course but that didn't help much.

Anyway, on the the topic first.

It all started when I came to the understanding that any mini diorama basing should not only have a good base, enough stuff to support the miniature, but a good diorama base should have stuff UNDER the miniature, BEHIND the miniature and even ABOVE the miniature: ie, levels.

So I figured that there's a street here in Hong Kong that is famous for it's stone slabs that should be perfect for a good base... slowly the basing idea became a diorama idea...

To date it's still an early stage project but it's slowly coming together...

The official name of the street is Pottinger Street. It is a street in Central, Hong Kong, which better better known as the Stone Slabs Street (石板街) by the locals, named after the granite stone steps which are a rarity nowadays in Hong Kong. The street was named after Henry Pottinger, the first Governor of Hong Kong.




There is actually a Air Raid shelter under this street, but was later covered up with stone slabs. Originally I thought it would be really cool to built this into the set, but this idea haven't made it to the diorama though...

a bit more about the history of the street here
(source: http://gwulo.com/Pottinger-Street-Hong-Kong)


When it was last checked in the 1980's, it was considered to be at risk of collapsing, and so was filled in.  This tunnel, along with Hong Kong's other Air Raid Precaution Tunnels, was built around 1940-41, so it would have been finished some where very close to the street's 100th birthday. 
The single, sloping entrance to the tunnel was on the section of Pottinger St about midway between Stanley and Wellington Streets. From there the tunnel ran for appx 75m, straight back into the hill. Its only other claim to fame seems to be its ventilation system. It was one of two ARP tunnel networks in Hong Kong (the other was the the tunnel under the governor's residence) that used ducted ventilation. That would have been a necessity for this tunnel, as with only one entrance and no ventilation shaft, there was no other way to circulate fresh air.



and a little bit of blog admin.  Thanks to my entry on photography I got over 1,000 hits a day and a few more clicks on the ads.  and now that the blog traffic is a lot more healthy it gives me a lot more incentive to blog.

Monday, November 3, 2014

Alyx, Hasslefree


Thursday, March 13, 2014

Zombicide - fully painted...

Well...
When I was crazy with this game a few months back I was so into it I thought I can finish painting them all in 3 weeks.  As it turns out, and as things in real life caught up, I had just finished them all last week, ie, almost a year... haha.
It's not the best of my work, but they are done.


Still very happy with the storage.
[Full blog entry: http://51-cent.blogspot.hk/2013/07/foam-storage.html]


And am still very happy with the transparent basing.
[full blog entry: http://51-cent.blogspot.hk/2013/08/litko-base.html]


The glass shards are actually hard plastic glued on to it.


I used to use blue dices for them, but then on they look too similar to the survivors so I just spray painted the clear bases blue.


The extra zombies that I just can't resist, they are very good indeed.  I still got a few more being painted but those don't count as the original plastic set aye? haha
[full blog entry: http://51-cent.blogspot.hk/2013/07/HassFree.html]


The team of proxy survivors, not as good as I wish them to be but good enough as gaming pieces.
[full blog entry: http://51-cent.blogspot.hk/2013/08/Zombicide-Proxy.html]


The mass of them look very imposing.


I need to make those contrast happening with these light blue runners...
[full blog entry: http://51-cent.blogspot.hk/2013/08/litko-base2.html]



Monday, March 10, 2014

Speed painting - priming

Hi everyone.

because of my craze towards Zombicide I got hold of a lot of zombies and modern days miniatures.  They had been sitting around the paint station for a long time now.  I finally pull myself together and try to get better at speed painting miniatures.

My steps:

  1. match them up with base
  2. put the bits together, base them if the mini isn't too obstructing for paint the base
  3. prime them with spray on
  4. base coat them with wash, wet-blending on the base to get to the cracks
  5. air-brush dark paints as shadows, extra layer if needed
  6. air-brush on light paints as lights, extra layer for more dramatic effect

Not exactly hyper speed but it is a lot quicker than what I used to do.

First stage is cleaning them and getting the right base for them.

 Most of them don't require much assembling except for two.  These days I am a lot better with handling green stuff now.

So I match them up with base from Secret Weapon, again, excellent product and value for money.

First I prime them with spray on primer, very easy step.  the hardest part is getting it even, not as easy when some of them mini got a lot of abstracted bits.

Then I group them up according the the stage they are at.


Monday, February 24, 2014

Painting Reaper Bones - basing

Hi everyone.  After getting this lot of BONES back in Oct last year, I had just started my first BONE.  I'd talk in length about my thoughts on it after I am finally done and got something to show for it, so let's just look at the base for now...


That's her standing there, tall and proud with her guitar.  This is the third time I paint her, the first two times I painted the metal version of this miniature, it will be interesting to see how the experience this time differ from the metal version.  The base is from Secret Weapon bag of crap, picked that up recently for an army project that I have in mind.


The base comes with a bit of defects of course, this one comes with a few large bubbles that could be easily fixed with green stuff.


Took me a while to remove the base off the miniature...


This is the first mock up of the set up.  The few weapons actually cost more than the miniature itself, that's a first for me.


Now that I am very familiar with the wet blending technique base coating the base is very easy.  Although it already looks pretty good without air-brushing, I've still done it to get the light/dark shading happening.


Air-brushing is really a super time saver, I need a better solvent for it though.  The one I am using now is said to be good for leveling the paint, so it seems to be very thin.  Although it comes out very smooth and nature, it takes a lot more 'passes' to get a solid shade...


I had actually already glued all the weapons on the base, but again not too happy with the result so far.  Will get some better pictures to show what I meant.


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